When lye is added to oils, a process called saponification takes place. What starts as a liquid ends up as a hard bar of soap. A good bar of soap is formulated with beautiful, healthy oils that create a rich lather when saponified. It also has, what soapers call, superfat, more oil than the lye can saponify. Creating a formula with the right amount of superfat means that the bar has all of the benefits of soap, a rich cleansing lather, without drying the skin.
Different oils have different impacts on the end product. Some oils create big bubbles, some create small bubbles, some make the soap harder, and some are better at cleansing. My end product comes from hours and hours of research, followed by multiple test batches. I have to thank my family and friends for being my guinea pigs...no humans were harmed during the process.
What's in my soap?
Babassu Oil: Many soapmakers use palm oil, which is a controversial oil due to the impact the harvesting can have on the environment. I use babassu oil as an alternative. It is more expensive, but has been credited with many benefits, and I sleep better at night. It comes from the babassu palm, which is native to rainforests of South America. It is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids, which are good for skin and hair. Some laboratory testing also shows that it has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory traits. In addition to these benefits, it creates large, fluffy bubbles in soap.
Coconut Oil: People have used coconut oil as a moisturizer for years. It is loaded with antioxidants and has been shown to prevent the growth of microorganisms and reduce inflammation in some studies. In a bar of soap, it is one of the best oils for cleansing and creates large, fluffy bubbles.
Olive Oil: Most people are well aware of the benefits of consuming olive oil. When it comes to the skin, it is a great moisturizer and is rich in vitamins and antioxidants. Studies have found it to be antibacterial. Olive oil's primary contribution to soapmaking is in its moisturizing benefits. It doesn't contribute much to the lather.
Castor Oil: The main component in castor oil is ricinoleic acid, a fatty acid that helps to moisturize and protect skin. Studies have shown it to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. Aside from these benefits, it creates a rich, creamy lather in a bar of soap.
Essential Oils: I don't use any synthetic fragrances in my studio. I'm allergic to many of them and have been since I was a child. Over the years, I've been gifted bottles of shower gel, lotions, or perfumes that were scented with oils that smelled like essential oils or food or other pure things but weren't actually a derivative of those pure things. I don't know what makes up fragrance oils, but after about 10 minutes of exposure to many of them, the scent breaks down and is not very pleasant to me. My eyes start to water and the congestion sets in. All that to say that I only use essential oils to scent my bars. There is a lot of information out there about the benefits of essential oils, everything from elevating your mood to medical miracles. I haven't researched any of that...I just like the smell of them! I guess I could vouch for the mood boosting quality, because they make me happy.
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